Ethiopia Trip: Bahir Dar

It takes 11 hours to drive between Addis Ababa and Bahir Dar so most people opt to fly there. We didn't, and while the roads were rough at times and we had to use 'nature's bathroom' the views more than made up for any discomfort. This is a viewpoint near Debre Libanos church.

We didn't really explore much of Bahir Dar, using it more as a staging point for seeing the Blue Nile Falls (an hour and a half drive away) and Lake Tana.

Our first excursion was to the falls. In addition to our city guide, you must also hire a local guide for the falls (this was common at several sites as a way of employing local people). While you can pick up any random person vying for the job it is worth getting an official guide, as they have better English skills and usually have a firm grasp of the history and interesting facts of the sites they're showing.

The falls require walking up the opposing hill (which at this altitude is a bit more of a workout). We were there just after the rainy season ended so they were very impressive. In the middle of the dry season the water is diverted to the hydro electric plant and the falls basically stop flowing. After the falls is a suspension bridge across the gorge, followed by a short walk and a ferry ride across the Blue Nile back to the car park.

We saw these yellow and orange flowers everywhere and our guide explained that they were called meskel flowers. Meskel is the celebration of finding the True Cross by Empress Helena and comes just after the Ethiopian new year in September, which is the only time of the year these daisies bloom. They are endemic to Ethiopia.

Back in the city we wandered around the market a bit, seeing the variety of spices, grains, vegetable and more for sale. There were crates full of live chickens, piles and piles of red onions, aisles for clothing, plastic shoes, and more. It's quite a sight.

The next day we took a boat ride on Lake Tana, saw some hippos and weaver birds and giant pelicans. We also saw members of the Weyto tribe (an ethnically different group that supports itself through fishing) out in their papyrus canoes called tankwa.

We visited the Azwa Maryam monastery on the Zage Peninsula. Founded in the 1310s by Abuna Yohannes it's a circular church with a thatched roof and modern paintings adorning the inside.

I love all the paintings of demons and the Last Judgement. With the Jesuit influence of the 16th C Ethiopian art adapted some Western designs, but so much remains original (including some Bible stories not included elsewhere, like Christ turning clay birds real as a child). While the cross is an important symbol, the crucifix - the implement of Christ's death - wasn't really portrayed until the Jesuits came. The cross is still seen more as a healing implement, like Moses's staff raised to heal the people of Israel in the desert. As with Catholic art, there is a lot of symbolism. Figures seen straight on with two eyes are generally good, while if they're seen from the side, with one eye, it means they're evil. 

Book Review: Ethiopian Painting in the Late Middle Ages and During the Gondar Dynasty by Jules Leroy

Translated by Claire Pace

Pros: one of the first books to cover the subject, gorgeous reproductions of the paintings discussed 

Cons: at times dismissive of the skill/style

Published in 1967, this is one of the first books to cover Ethiopian painting in the late middle ages and during the Gondar Dynasty. As such, it’s immensely important in bringing examples of this artwork to the attention of the outside world (though Ethiopian history and art still hasn’t gained much Western interest).  

The book consists of two chapters followed by the plates and explanations. Chapter one deals with the generalities of Ethiopian art and architecture for the period. Chapter two deals with specific paintings, the history of Gondar, and outside influences on Ethiopian art and how those influences were modified to reflect Ethiopian traditions.

The bibliography at the back shows just how limited sources on this topic were (and still are). 

While the author admired some aspects of Ethiopian art - enough to write a book on the subject - it’s also clear that he considered other aspects beneath those of Western and Asian artists. On page 24 for example, he writes, “Many Ethiopian paintings of the 15th and 16th Centuries reveal a similar character to that of the Irish miniatures, though with less talent and less subtlety.” Comments like this abound, where he compares the Ethiopian paintings to those of other nations and finds them wanting. 

The book is excellent for pointing out details those unfamiliar with Ethiopian life and Christian tradition might otherwise miss. For example, in images of the Flight into Egypt, a maid is seen accompanying the holy couple. Sometimes she’s carrying the Christ child, others she has a container of injera (flat bread) on her head. 

I found the discourse on how European, Byzantine and Indian art at times influenced that of Ethiopia. It shows that ideas travelled around the world, despite how insular modern audience believe nations were in the past.

While it’s not a perfect book, it is an important one and has some gorgeous artwork. It is out of print, but you may find a university or museum library that has a copy you can read.